Notes on Scottish Life

I thought I'd treat you all to a few pictures from our local newspaper for a glimpse of 'modern' Scottish life, to accompany a discussion of my recent reading. (Click to enlarge photos.)



Have things changed very much since the time of Samuel Johnson's and James Boswell's famous tour of the Hebrides? I'd have to say 'Yes and no.' While I read, I found myself laughing at some of the similarities between the Scotland of their 1773 tour and my current place of residence.

The weather, the landscape, the isolation and remoteness, and some of the unique cultural identity of western Scotland that Johnson observed in his Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland are all recognizable here today.

As you can see from these photos, contemporary Scotland has maintained its connection with its cultural past. This may seem like an obvious thing to state, but for an American living here, many of these cultural practices strike me as especially 'Old World'. Which, of course, they are!

Be that as it may, the old-fashioned is not necessarily out of fashion. Traditional Highland dress is the standard for special occasions. Gangs of young pipers (both male and female) parade through Oban in their kilts anytime there is a concert or piping competition. The costumes range widely in color and pattern.



The tweedy 'country' style, as worn by the gentlemen above (top), is frequently observed around town or in the hills, especially on men of a certain age. These men are posing for a photo at a local sheep-dog trial.

You can find people occupied by the same types of labor that have sustained people here for centuries. Crofting (small family farming), animal husbandry, fishing, mining, spinning and weaving, and other crafts provide a living for many.

However, especially in the islands, one occupation is not enough. We have met islanders who hold many diverse jobs in order to keep themselves and their remote communities prospering; one man might be piermaster, postman, B+B proprietor, shop owner, bus driver and tour guide all in one.

Tourism is the one big addition to the world of subsistence living that Johnson and Boswell observed. Now, Scotland promotes itself shamelessly as a tourist destination, as seen in this article from last week's Oban Times.

Duke of Argyll fronts new tourism campaign



The Duke and Dutchess of Argyll will be heading up a new campaign to attract visitors to Scotland. The couple, who's (sic) ancestral home is at Inveraray Castle, are among 14 new 'faces' of Scotland being used by VisitScotland to represent the country's highlights in its biggest ever European marketing campaign.

I loved finding this article, just as I finished Johnson's narrative. He and Boswell stayed with the Duke of Argyll in Inveraray on their return journey from the Hebrides! They probably even stayed at the Castle (pictured in the background)!

This means that the Duke of Argyll and his predecessors have been promoting tourism in Scotland for nearly two and a half centuries.

Tourism was possible in the remoter parts of Scotland if you had connections to the gentry, which Johnson and Boswell did. Using their fame and upper-class connections, they were able to secure invitations to stay with lairds and clan chiefs nearly everywhere they went.

In those days, the elite members of society would have been the only ones who could afford to entertain tourists (or even to be tourists). Nowadays, nearly everyone in Scotland is invested somehow in tourism, which forms a major part of the national economy.

Johnson's observations of the weather could be made by anyone in western Scotland today.

A succession of three dry days was not to be expected for many months. (46)

Their weather is not pleasing. Half the year is deluged with rain. (70)

His comments on the isolation and remoteness of some of the little villages also are still totally relevant. I can relate to this, even living in a larger town like Oban:

To live in perpetual want of little things, is a state not indeed of torture, but of constant vexation. (118)

I read with interest about the cultural changes that were happening at the time of their visit, as a monetary economy was gradually replacing a goods economy and as widespread emigration was emptying the Highlands.

More discussion will follow tomorrow, in which I will look more closely at Johnson's reactions to the landscape of western Scotland and his observations of the cultural and economic changes happening at the time of his visit.

Find more classic Scottish literature at the Scottish Literature Reading Challenge and Clishmaclaver.